MOVING AN ESTABLISHED REEF TANK
Part 1 - Moving Out

by Marty Ziegler
First published in Gravel Gossip, Diamond State Aquarium Society
Aquarticles

At one time or another, every fishkeeper will have to move an established tank, anywhere from a few feet to hundreds of miles. This can be quite traumatic, for both the fish and the fishkeeper, if done without planning ahead. This can be a disaster with a reef tank and the delicate invertebrates which do not like change. In this month's article, we'll discuss what is needed and how to proceed for the lengthier move, from one home to another.

Plan ahead
Ideally, it would be wise to set up one or more smaller quarantine tanks at your home at least a week or two prior to the move. These would be bare tanks with just your basic filtration, aeration and a heater, along with a couple pieces of PVC pipe to give the fish some hiding places in their temporary home. I am not too concerned with the water parameters in these tanks other than getting the temperature stabilized, as I prefer to use the water from the tank I am moving to minimize stress to the fish in the acclimation process (the move will be stressful enough). For the live rock and sand, I set up one or more 32 gallon plastic garbage cans (new) along with a couple of powerheads for water flow and an air pump for aeration. The rock will do fine in here during the period of time you are setting up your relocated tank. Try to obtain all the water parameters of the existing tank that you are planning to move. Note the pH, hardness, salinity, and temperature, so you will be able to duplicate this in the new tank. Hopefully, you have already selected the ideal location for the tank you will be moving.

If you are using a new tank, get this set up now. Mix up some salt water for approximately 20% of the new tank volume the day before the move. This can be put in this tank or in buckets for transferring on the day of the move. If you have new filters for this tank, you will be seeding them with biomedia from the old filters after the move.

Make sure you have the whole day free for the move for those unforeseen events that always seem to occur. Plan your move when the weather is not extreme, such as in the spring or fall, if at all possible. Try to round up a couple of friends to help out, it'll make things move a lot smoother and quicker, and be easier on your nerves. I find that the earlier you start the move, the fewer hassles you'll have with outside problems, such as traffic and other interruptions. Do the move on the weekend or when you have the day off. Hopefully, you can obtain a pick-up truck or van, or you will be making several trips back and forth.

Depending on what you are moving, you will need various containers for moving the fish, invertebrates, rocks, gravel, and even the water. Unfortunately, wide swings in temperature during the move can be deadly to your livestock. An ice chest is ideal for the fish or invertebrates, as temperature is a lot easier to maintain in this type of container. Make sure you have several battery-operated air pumps to ensure plenty of aeration in these containers. You can close the lid during the ride, but must crack open the lid occasionally to allow built-up gases to escape and let fresh air in on the longer moves (more than several hours). Depending on what you will be transporting in the ice chest, you will only have it approximately half full of water or less. You can also use the same foam boxes used to transport dealer's livestock. Your local dealer will probably be more than happy to loan or give you a few of these.

Moving delicate corals is a bit more difficult. You'll need some plastic bags. I've even used Tupperware containers. Just be sure they are clean and there is no soap residue on them. Each coral should be in its own container as many corals will damage or kill other corals if they touch. I then place these bags or containers in a larger plastic tote or ice chest for the move. To prevent any damage to the corals during the move, try to secure the coral base with foam to keep them from bouncing or sliding around in the containers.

The rocks and gravel can be carried in large plastic totes (I like the 18-22 gallon size). Just don't fill them too full or you will break your back moving them! Only put in enough to make them movable with one or two people. You will also need to add some water, how much will depend on how long the move will take. The rock can be out of water for short periods of time, with just enough water to slosh around and keep them damp. The exception to this is if there are any sponges on the rock. Sponges cannot be exposed to air or they will die. Keep these completely submerged at all times.

Last, but not least, you will need water containers to save and transport the old aquarium water. I use plastic five-gallon square containers with handles and screw caps. Whatever you use, make sure you can cap them to keep the water in and they are clean.

Ask the previous owner to not feed the tank the day before and the day of the move.

Day of the move
Before the move, it is best to cover them. Keeping the fish in the dark minimizes stress. Be sure you get everyone, including any snails, hermit crabs, starfish, or other life forms in the tank. You can put all the snails in one bag and all the crabs in another, and so on, for the move. At this point, remove as much of the remaining water as possible.

Next, remove the sand or gravel, using a 2-quart plastic pitcher that has flat sides for scooping up the sand and pouring it into one of the totes. Them drain the remaining water, which by now will be quite cloudy, and discard it. Disconnect and remove all the piping, pumps, filters, protein skimmer, wet-dry, heaters, chiller, etc. and place in the totes. A little paper or bubblewrap will help in wrapping the glass items to prevent breakage.

To move the tank will require some help, if it is longer than 3 feet. Make sure the tank is placed on a smooth flat surface for the trip and is cushioned on all sides. If anything hits the sides, they will break, trust me. Secure the tank to prevent it from moving around. You can use the totes and foam boxes for added support. I do not recommend stacking anything, if at all possible. Secure the lighting and prevent them from moving. Cushion the fixture, especially if they are metal halides. You may even want to remove the bulbs and wrap them for the trip. Pack the tank stand, equipment, and remaining containers, with the livestock being last. I prefer to carry the livestock in a car, for a more stable environment. If you are using an open pick-up truck, make sure all the lids are secured. You do not want the sun beating down on any open livestock containers.